Eggs Royale, Ricotta

Introduction

Béarnaise is one of the hardest sauces to master. Mine always split. Then, after an especially exhausting day at work, I spent what energy I had left trying again—and it turned out wonderful. Here are all the tips for a reliable béarnaise in a dish that belongs on the very best brunch table.

Instructions

For the vinegar and tarragon reduction:

1. In a small pan, combine the vinegar and tarragon. Reduce over low heat until about 1 tbsp liquid remains. Set aside.

For the clarified butter:

1. Melt the butter in the microwave in a jug for about 30–40 seconds.

2. A pale foam will form on top—the milk proteins.

3. Pour the clear yellow fat into another container carefully; stop before the solids at the bottom transfer. You should have about 150g clarified butter. Set aside.

For the eggs:

1. Make the béarnaise: in a wide metal bowl, whisk the yolks vigorously with a large whisk.

2. When creamy and increased in volume, add the vinegar reduction and keep whisking hard to incorporate air.

3. Set over a bain-marie on very low heat and whisk until thicker, glossier and more voluminous. Lift the bowl off the heat from time to time so the eggs do not overheat, without stopping whisking.

4. If the sauce looks about to split, sprinkle a few drops of warm water and keep whisking—it should come back together.

5. Whisk steadily another 10–15 minutes. Then drizzle in the clarified butter in a thin stream, whisking constantly.

6. Remove from the heat and season with fleur de sel, pepper and a few drops of lemon.

7. Keep the sauce warm over the turned-off bain-marie while you finish the rest.

8. For the poached egg: bring a pan of water with a few drops of vinegar almost to the boil.

9. Crack the egg into a sieve to drain some loose white, then transfer to a small cup.

10. Stir the simmering water into a whirlpool and slide the egg into the centre.

11. Poach 2–3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon.

To serve:

1. Spread ricotta on a slice of vianinha.

2. Layer smoked salmon on top.

3. Rest the poached egg on the salmon.

4. Spoon over the béarnaise—it should feel luxurious and decadent.

5. Snip chives over the sauce. Add another slice of bread to the plate.

6. When you cut in, the white should be set and the yolk still runny.